Arrow Wood Finish
Arrow Wood Finish is a "hand-Rubbed" oil finish that is so easy to use and so fast, it makes all other oils obsolete.
Arrow Wood Finish contains oils that pentrate the wood to keep it lively and flexible, a natural filler that levels out pores, scratches, and other imperfections, and a durable sealer that protects against the weather. All the while it is doing these great things, it builds a super smooth finish that can be adjusted from completely non-reflective to the absolute brightest of shines.
Not only can you take a raw piece of wood and bring it to a glorious finish in far less time than you'd expect...but you can also repair any existing finish and match perfectly...WITHOUT STRIPPING the old finish off! The only thing Arrow Wood Finish does not do is stain the wood. It brings out the beauty of the natural wood. However, it can be used over any kind of stain as well.
A little of this goes a long way. Four ounces of Arrow will cover the same amount of wood as a half-gallon of varnish! In doing stocks for firearms, it will do ten full sized stocks from raw or touch-up on about 40! REMEMBER, when using Arrow Wood Finish..."If a little is good...LESS is better!
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It comes with very thorough instructions which follow:
ARROW WOOD FINISH INSTRUCTIONS
ARROW WOOD FINISH contains oils, which penetrate the wood,, a natural filler that fills the pores and scratches in the wood, and is a flexible sealer to weather-proof. Nothing else is required. Any type of stain may be used if desired.
The first applications penetrate the wood. Each additional application attaches itself to the former. The result is a finish that is actually bonded in the wood. This is not a hard, brittle finish that cracks, chips, or peels, but a resilient finish that withstands hard use indoors or out. It is also excellent for spot repairs, touch-up, or restoring and protecting other finishes.
SURFACE PREPARATION: On unfinished wood, sand surfaces with 320/400 grit paper. If stain is required, apply according to manufacturers instructions. If ARROW is to be applied to a previously finished wood: A) If the old finish is peeling, cracking, blistering, or chipping, it would be best to strip it off to obtain the strongest results. B) If the previous finish is just damaged or worn, or has lost its luster, ARROW may be applied over the old finish.
APPLICATION: DO NOT POUR FINISH DIRECTLY ON WOOD. Spread a few drops in the palm of your hand or on a cloth pad and rub thoroughly into the wood. USE SPARINGLY. Next, take a piece of “wet-or-dry” abrasive paper, moisten it lightly with the wood finish and use it to “wet-sand” the finish into the wood. When the finish becomes stiff (as it dries) discard the paper and completely rub the surface dry with your hand or a cloth. Allow the finish to cure 24 hours between coats. Each application with the abrasive paper will fill the pores but will leave a satin finish. The coarser the paper, the more filling but the duller the finish. 320 or 400 grit paper leaves a matte finish (like military non-reflective finishes). 600 grit or finer will leave a lustrous satin finish. If a higher gloss is required, when ALL the pores have been filled by using the paper…begin to apply by hand or cloth WITHOUT paper rubbing. These coats should be EXTREMELY light coats, always rubbed dry by hand or cloth. To speed the shining process, after curing, burnish the surface with a nylon stocking wrapped around a soft dry sponge. More coats by hand creates a higher gloss. IMPORTANT NOTE: If a little bit is good – LESS is better! Each coat takes LESS than the previous coat. Always wear the paper out – going to fresh paper too often prevents maximum filling.
ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES: A) For maximum filling on raw wood, do not raise the grain for “whiskering”. Apply ARROW to the wood and allow it to sit for 10-15 minutes without rubbing. Grain will rise. NOW buff the finish in (as above). The whiskers become part of the filler (and they have to match…it’s the same wood). B) To clean a dirty or darkened finish without stripping (use Klean & Brite or..) apply ARROW heavier than usual, rub with fine abrasive paper, BUT DO NOT ALLOW TO DRY - ADD MORE FINISH IF NEEDED. After rubbing a short while, wipe loosened finish off with a paper towel, and buff dry. Greases, old tacky finish, or surface damage will be removed. Cure for 24 hours and finish as usual. C) Dents in wood can be raised by applying water to the wood, cover area with a damp cloth, and apply heat (as with a steam iron) to make the water steam. Repeat process until wood no longer swells. Allow to dry and then sand-fill-finish. D) To prevent white-line scratches on urethane or epoxy finishes (or other high gloss finishes), apply ARROW very sparingly just with your hand and rub dry (no paper). Finish will remain shiny but won’t scuff or powderize. E) To finish checkering, carving or other textures without filling or rounding the edges, apply with a toothbrush and brush in well. Wipe excess off and cure. F) To finish spindles, legs and other round items…ARROW may be rubbed in with a cloth like the old shoeshine cloth. Treat cloth with the wood finish, wrap around the spindle, and pull back and forth. G) Flat surfaces (table tops, cupboard doors, etc.) may be finished by applying ARROW and rubbing the wet finish in with an orbital, or palm sander with fine abrasive paper…rather than by hand. When cured ARROW may also be power buffed with a loose wheel or sheepskin buffer to add additional luster.
Available on our Shopping cart page under "Products for wood"